Radio Restorals, and Homebrew?

[ky5u]

Thought it would be interesting to hear about your restoral project, kit, or home brew.

My projects are:

1. Restoral of old Sonar 75B AM Marine Radiotelephone. Bought it on eBay for about $25 bucks. Got a 3885 Xtal and tuned the transmitter. The old tubes are giving me about 60w. Mike audio was low and noticed it was a carbon mike. Gave it a good wack on the table and it freed up enough granules to modulate pretty good. Carbon mike from eBay on the way for $9.95. The receive crystal needs to be 455kHz higher than the TX so i found a 4340Kc Xtal on the net for $2.00. I am looking for another if anyone has one. Xtal came yesterday and the righ RX fine but sensitivity is not good as it is on 2182kc. Looks like variable cap in front end may be out of value range with the fcy change. Time to "extend" the range with a fixed value.

2. I have a new Class E/D AM Transmitter and I wanted it to blend with my retro gear. I bought an S-106 Hallicrafters off of eBay and gutted it for the housing. I will mount the transmitter components in the Hallicrafters chasis. It matches the size of a little S-53 receiver so I will have a cool looking matching station. I found mike plugs, a toggle switch, etc. at the Monroe hamfest. I still need two pilot lamps (one for power the other for TX). Would like to find the old chasis mount kind with the cut glass screw on lens. Anyone have some of these? (Mount in the same hole as a toggle switch or female 1/4" phono plug.) Anyway, I will mount a carrier or ma meter behind the round "glass" that held the S-106 tuning pointer. The toggle switch is a center off, up and down one so I can remote the receiver mute function to the transmitter front panel.

What are YOU doing???

[nm5tf]

project #1 for now is to restore/fix an old Heathkit HW-101
that a friend bought off e-bay....of course, it was sold as "working just fine"....not!!!...and the seller held him off long enuff so that e-bay won't do anything to resolve it!!!

so far I have found it to rcv ok on 80,40,15 & parts of 10M...20M is totally dead....am in process of checking components on osc boards....slow going as I only spend a
couple of hours/week on it...

it does not output any power on
any band, so suspect the finals...
the Tx relay does engage, but shows no power output...

luckily for me, I also have a HW-101 that is working to use as a reference to help with troubleshooting http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

I will use this unit as an incentive for him to get his license

73 de Tom

[W5HTW]

Two projects underway.

Reviving an HW101 for a friend. It has been sitting in a basement or storage room or something, for years. Lots of bad switch and relay contacts, one bad crystal, some low tubes. Got a ways to go with it, but making some progress.

Trying to resolve problems in my original IC-706 on the Filter board. Got it all torn apart, and the tiny soldering iron ready to go. Not exactly thrilled with working on SMT, but less thrilled about sending it away and paying the 'big bucks' I don't have, to get it fixed. It is, though, a low priority project, so it is just sitting for now, until I get the HW101 off the bench.

And got an old dual deck VCR apart, looking for a drive belt for one of the decks inside it. That one is really low priority, but wouldn't mind getting it going and getting it back together again. One of these days - it is in the "round tuit" file.

Ed

[k0cmh]

Only project of any matter is homebrewing interfaces for every radio, for psk, sstv and rtty modes. I have a Signalink SL1+ and am making a cable for each radio. I also am making my own designed interface for each radio. The Signalink requires DC power, and not every radio I have has that available to tap. So my own design uses no power. Lots of fun. I put on a demonstration of psk 31/63 and SSTV for my ARES group, using 2 meter FM simplex. That was a blast. Everyone wanted schematics for my homebrewed interfaces.

[W5HTW]

Quote[/b] (wa6oml @ Nov. 14 2006,12:40)]project #1 for now is to restore/fix an old Heathkit HW-101
that a friend bought off e-bay....of course, it was sold as "working just fine"....not!!!...and the seller held him off long enuff so that e-bay won't do anything to resolve it!!!

so far I have found it to rcv ok on 80,40,15 & parts of 10M...20M is totally dead....am in process of checking components on osc boards....slow going as I only spend a
couple of hours/week on it...

it does not output any power on
any band, so suspect the finals...
the Tx relay does engage, but shows no power output...

luckily for me, I also have a HW-101 that is working to use as a reference to help with troubleshooting :D

I will use this unit as an incentive for him to get his license

73 de Tom
Ha! We posted at the same time - coincidence we are both working on HW101s for someone else.

20 meters was dead on this one, too, but that was the crystal. Just replaced that, and that problem is resolved. Did a complete receive alignment, and it seems OK but still intermittent. Gonna have to pull the main relay and try to clean it. That's the next project.

This one was not an eBay deal. Found locally in a garage sale! Complete with original power supply, the matching Heathkit speaker, a Shure 444 microphone, and a Vibroplex paddle, all for 15 bucks and with original manuals, too! A really good deal if I can get it going for him.

Like you, I get only a couple of hours a week to do these projects. If it were summer time I'd get even less time.

Enjoy!

Ed

[KN7T]

What a great topic - here's my list of "restore/homebrew" stuff:

1. #Re-cap project for Collins 32S-1, 75S-1, and 516F-2. #Also new finals for the 32S-1

2. #Rebuild power supply and new finals for Collins 30L-1

3. #Rebuild power supply, new finals, and update Heathkit SB-200

4. #Build speech processor for FT-817

5. #Finish 10 meter CW beacon project that I'm halfway through

6. #Restore Hammarlund HQ-170 receiver

7. #Troubleshoot/repair Icom IC-820H

8. #Clean-up/restore Hallicrafters TO-1 Keyer

[K6UEY]

As usual the number of completed projects #grows at a Linear rate, but the number of New Interesting projects grows at a Logarithmic function.

Several areas of endevor,the station is in the final phases of a complete rebuild. Tore it down to adding new shelves and repositioning gear as well as retiring some gear and adding new gear. The positioning is all completed ,now the fun of making all the interface cabling and switching to allow the computer to function as the tool it was intended to be.

Out in the "TINKER TOY AREA" in the shop,some new gear has been added,new signal generators,CW as well as sweepers,Spectrum analyzers, and general test gear.
One of the projects underway is the generation of a Primary Frequency Standard to reference the Generators and the counters,by using the Cesium and Rubidium standards aboard the GPS satelites. A second standard will be built for the shack to keep the rigs on frequency.

Data has to be recorded and composed into an article for the "Linear Loaded HF V " The task of putting 130 feet of wire in a 100 foot space.It has been playing for several years now so it is time to write it down.
And who knows what ideas will form for other antennas as the V article is being written.

That is one of the Premium benefits of Amateur Radio,there is never a dull moment,there are always several interesting projects waiting in the wings for the time to be alloted to their success.

One of the things I enjoy is to read up on the theory about a particular phase and then go into the Lab and test it to see if it is true. Not only is it knowledgable and boosts the understanding but it also reassures that some one knew what the hell they were talking about,some thing not readily found with many of today's Experts .

Nothing like a cloud of SAL-Ammoniac smoke hovering #above the work bench at 3 am .
Have FUN, but above all #LEARN from your Tinkering !! http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif #http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif
POST EDIT:
I neglected to mention the HF Kilowatt mobile that is being assembled for installation while all the other projects are going on. NEVER A DULL MOMENT !!




http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif #http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[ky5u]

Yeppers UEY, I can dream up projects faster than I can do them.

I had my Swan 1200 on the bench to repair. It had suffered years of "CB" fixes. When i got it I stripped out most of the junk but the rectifier chain was a kludge of 1A diodes. Finally zapped one (and a cathode resistor), so I took the opportunity to put in a bridge of 6A 1KV diodes. Plate voltage was 900V before, now it is a steady 1005V. Replaced all the old cathode resistors with new ones. Had been on the bench for a month waiting on parts.

Funny story: I usually work with the HV lead jumpered to ground and the amp unplugged. So I repalced the diodes, turned on the amp and the transformer hummed so i shut it down in 1 second. Thought I had a diode in backwards until I touched the jumper wire and felt the heat. Yep, I had left in my safety jumper and it almost melted the jumper, but the diodes were just fine. LOLOL!!

Guys don't be afraid to give us a little troubleshooting detail in your descriptions. And still looking for pilot lamps...any idea where I can buy the old chasis type? Who has #47 bulbs these days?

[ke4pjw]

I recently repaired a Knightkit KG-50 stereo tuner that my father built in 1964. Was pretty fun getting it working without a schematic or block diagram. I even found a cold solder joint that was made by the old man. Boy do I miss him.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8557/img3356qo1.jpg

[W4HAY]

Revitalizing a nice-looking, mechanically-sound, freebie BC-348-Q that someone really screwed up internally.

Designing the circuit for, and laying out, a homebrew 6AG7/807 CW rig to use with my recently-acquired Heath VF-1 on 80/40/20.

IOW, my Novice dream-station back in '54.

For those restoring, Antique Electronice Supply (http://www.tubesandmore.com/) has many hard-to-find items.

[W0LPQ]

Charlie ... I got my #47's from Fair Radio ... they were GE and have lasted over 3 years in the TR-4C...

Bill, W0LPQ

[ai4ep]

YO --- check your PM for info from me about potential locations of some of the parts you may need now or in the future.

[KF0RT]

Quote[/b] (AG4YO @ Nov. 14 2006,14:12)]And still looking for pilot lamps...any idea where I can buy the old chasis type? Who has #47 bulbs these days?
Believe it or not, Radio Shack sells #47 bulbs. I bought some there recently.

As for me... just got a T-4XC that needs some TLC. I've got it to light up, now just need to make it work. http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

73, Rob

[W0LPQ]

Rob, that is why I went to Fair Radio. The RS bulbs lasted exactly 2 weeks ... as you know screws to remove and replace on the sides ... the RV-4C is a bear .. thus Fair Radio bulbs (which were GE..!).

Bill, W0LPQ

[n8yx]

In no particular order of importance:

1) FT901DM - rebuild voltage regulator boards; possibly more work involved but gotta get +VCC first

2) IC-R71A - has a high-pitched whine in the audio, and I'm going to fit an EX257 FM board

3) Cubic Astro 150C - the 'down' section of the up-down controller (on the CPU board) doesn't work correctly when tuned with the mic. (Most probably a bad 4066 IC)

4) IC720/R70/IC7072 - my latest addition; am going to give the rigs a thorough alignment and then kick a pair of my Drakes off the bench to make room for them, which leads us to:

5) Drake R7 - need to replace all the Molex connectors on the DR7 board and associated modules...there's an intermittent in the rig which DeOxIt won't fix

6) Inboard synthesizer for R7/TR7 - got most of the pieces/parts in for this project, with the exception of a BASIC Stamp that uses a 32MHz clock. This winter I'll start developing the tuning routines which will drive an AD9851 DDS via the Stamp and a rotary encoder

7) -IF- SGC ships the ADSP2 units I bought I'm going to add them to two of my Cubic Astro-D rigs over the holidays;

8) Need to build a cable so I can use the Astro-D with a remote tuner (ST4) I picked up a while back


Recently completed projects include an Astro 150A and a 103; the latter was a restoration for a local buddy of mine. What a PITA that thing was, but we're both pleased with the results.

10m CB project, all it lacks is me figuring out how to program the controller.

I am ripping all the ham gear out of my vehicle and going 100% commercial. 110w Maratrac on 2m, Kenwood TK-800 on 440, Motorola GTX on 900mhz. Ony ham gear will be my HF stuff.

Building an interface to link the 900mhz GTX with my other mobiles to act as a crossband repeater.

Converting some 800mhz Maxtracs to recieve on 902 for a 900mhz repeater project. Already have the transmitter made from a modified Kenwood TK-931.

[nm5tf]

Quote[/b] (W5HTW @ Nov. 14 2006,06:44)]And got an old dual deck VCR apart, looking for a drive belt for one of the decks inside it. That one is really low priority, but wouldn't mind getting it going and getting it back together again. One of these days - it is in the "round tuit" file.

Ed
Hi Ed...

you might check out this e-bay store for those drive belts...

I bought some from them to fix my old turntable...works great now....

go here:

http://stores.ebay.com/Microph....2QQtZkm (http://stores.ebay.com/Microphonics_Drive-Belts_Cassette-Drive-Belts_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ856833QQftidZ2QQtZkm)

73 de Tom

p.s. tnx fer tip on HW-101 20M xstl....will swap 1 from my working HW-101....

[N2RJ]

Not doing anything right now, because I'm packing my stuff.

However, recently I've fallen in love with the Zenith Trans-Oceanic shortwave portables. I am collecting every tube type model made.

The dead ones usually have shorted electrolytics, which I replace. I also replace all of the old wax paper caps as well.

Sorry, no retro ham gear yet.

[KF0RT]

Quote[/b] (W0LPQ @ Nov. 14 2006,19:34)]Rob, that is why I went to Fair Radio. The RS bulbs lasted exactly 2 weeks ... as you know screws to remove and replace on the sides ... the RV-4C is a bear .. thus Fair Radio bulbs (which were GE..!).

Bill, W0LPQ
Really...? Well, that sux. I haven't had my stuff running long enough to burn anything out yet, but I'll keep an eye on that.

Here's another source:
Link #47 (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LP-47/320/6.3V_MINI_BAYONET_BASE_LAMP_.html)

Mouser, too. (http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntt=606-CM47)

73, Rob

[w5alt]

Well, seeing as I'm away from home 90% of the time, I don't have much homebrew and restoration actively going on. I have several Heathkit and Hallicrafters sets stored away for when I get time, but it's not likely to be anytime soon.

In the meantime I've been playing with some DSP and various and sundry stations accessories, as well as assorted software ranging from SDR to DSP to logging. Who know what will strike my fancy next.

My last real projects were a 30m RX/TX that I want to convert to use a DDS VFO and abe able to do SWBC as well. I also have a 40m SDR to put together, which I may try to modify to cover the adjacent SWBC bands.

I've got a couple of DDS VFOs reay to build, but I've already ruined one trying to solder the SMT DDS chip. Once I get the courage to try that again, I want to build my own all mode SDR primarily for receive, but with a QRP TX added. I'm sure I'll learn a lot along the way.

Other than that, I've been writing some DSP code for the soundcard and playing with some digital protocols. So far mainly the software is homebrew here, though.

73,
Walt, W5ALT

[nm5tf]

Quote[/b] (w5alt @ Nov. 15 2006,04:44)]Well, seeing as I'm away from home 90% of the time, I don't have much homebrew and restoration actively going on. I have several Heathkit and Hallicrafters sets stored away for when I get time, but it's not likely to be anytime soon.


73,
Walt, W5ALT
Hi Walt...

you wouldn't happen to have a SX-111 "stored away" awaiting restoration would you???

73, Tom

[w5alt]

Quote[/b] (wa6oml @ Nov. 15 2006,13:57)]You wouldn't happen to have a SX-111 "stored away" awaiting restoration would you???
No, I have an SX-99 and an S-40B. The SX-99 was working last time I powered it up. It was my novice RX. The S-40B apparently needs some new IF transformers and the band switch is bad.

What I'd really like to find is a Knight T-60, which was my novice TX, just for nostalgia sake. I have a Heathkit DX-60B, SB-401, HR-1680 and a couple other Heathkits. They were all working, but haven't been powered up in about 15 years now.

73,
Walt, W5ALT

[w8ixy]

Hello everyone,

Since you asked.....got several projects in progress:

Putting the finishing touches on my shack's nostalgia "area":

Solving an internal arcing problem on a classic 'almost completely restored' Viking Valiant (with the 866's!).

Just finished restoration of a smoke damaged HQ-180A....man did I go through a lot of cleaning cloths and various cleaning fluids. Plain old soap and water worked best. Plus, now it works almost as good as new, just a bit less stable than it was in 1964.

Recapped and aligned an HQ-145A.

Getting ready to clean, rebuild, and recap a classic Heathkit DX-100B. (See HQ-180A above).

In the midst of restoring some classic Zenith Royal 400 and 500 transistor radios, and some Channel Master 6215 'long distance' transistor radios.

Plus a "rest of my life" project: Converting and restoring thousands of reel-to reel tapes and vinyl records to CD and DVD.

I am sure there will be much more!!!

73,
Ted
K8VPL

[K8AG]

Just finished moving my shack to accommodate my son and his family when they visit. Next projects are (not necessarily in this order):

Build my SW20+ QRP kit that I have had for a couple of years
Finish putting my portable station together
Finish WAS. Been a ham 30+ years and still don't have it. Need AK
Spend more time operating
Experiment with vertical and loop antennas

73, JP, K8AG

[KC2PBJ]

Recapped and cleaned up my first novice transmitter, a Heath AT1. #Ditto for a DX 40. #Capped and aligned a Hammarlund HQ 180 AC last time around. #Have my eye out for a 2 meter Goonie Box (Model II or III)and VFO that needs a cleanup.

[ky5u]

Well, ordered my bulbs and holders today from the Antique Radio place. Thanks for the tip. Asked for 2nd day so I may have for the weekend. Will post pictures of the Transmitter as it goes together.

Interested in the smoky DX-100. If I recall it used 6146 outputs modulated by 1225s? They sound pretty good on the air. I use a B&W 5100 thich has 2ea 6146s finals modulated by a pair of 6146s.

[W4ETE]

I'm presently moving into a new place... My projects include restoring/repairing an HW32 and several other Heathkit accessories, and I'm looking into antennas that I can build/buy since I no longer have to worry about the restrictions imposed at my last place.

[AA0CX]

I guess I'm kind of a "restorer lite." In other words, more routine maintenance than any kind of restoration.

I've installed a new driver tube in my Hallicrafters HT-32B transmitter; also replaced the 9MC amplifier tube.

The old girl is now set for another winter of great CW on 40. http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[af7v]

I just got the parts to recap a DX-40. So I'll be tackling that over the next couple days or weeks (time is so difficult to come by).

I've also got a Heathkit io-4550 that is in need of some work to get operational again.

Not nearly as exciting as others have posted about, but give me time (I still consider myself very new to radio) and I'm sure I'll be swamped with homebrew projects.

Bert

[WA7KKP]

Working on an Eldico S/Line clone, the R104/T102 series. Receiver now has an original S meter (thanks to a stroke of luck on E-bay) -- I just need to fix the pointer on the top scale of the TX vfo, and find more original style knobs, and align the passband IF stage.

Anybody got a junker Eldico out there I could get for parts?

Gary WA7KKP

[ky5u]

Quote[/b] (WA7KKP @ Nov. 15 2006,16:23)]Working on an Eldico S/Line clone, the R104/T102 series. Receiver now has an original S meter (thanks to a stroke of luck on E-bay) -- I just need to fix the pointer on the top scale of the TX vfo, and find more original style knobs, and align the passband IF stage.

Anybody got a junker Eldico out there I could get for parts?

Gary WA7KKP
Gary,

Try w4pqw (email w4pqw(at sign)cox.net) Harold. He has a bunch of old rig parts. He collects "twins" and has Eldico stuff.

[w8ixy]

To Charley, AG4YO

Regarding the smoky DX-100B. It was damaged in a house fire and all that soot and deposited combustion gunk got all over the cabinet and upper chassis, but the underside was almost unscathed.

Mine is a DX100B, and I modified is slightly. I put another 6146 in parallel with the other two PA tubes, for a total of 3 PA's. Since I had a source of 807's, I changed the modulators from 1625's to 807's. Just a filament rewiring and socket changeout was all that needed.

With a different plate output impedance because of the 3 paralleled 6146's, I wondered how the PA tuning components would react. It did tune "differently" - different mesh on the PA variable cap, and loaded slightly differently, but it was stable and I did get the output power I expected. I would run it on CW loading the PA plates to about 375 ma @750 volts (the PA HV transformer was rated at 400ma). It gave me over 150 watts OUTPUT on CW. However, I didn't want to burn up the transformer, so I ran it at no more than 300ma PA current on AM. The modulators and modulation transformer barely made it to 100% symetrical modulation, so I never went beyond 300ma PA current on AM. I also played with the PA screen dropping resistor values to optimize the grid, screen, and plate currents.

I did modify the low level audio stages to allow a relatively flat response from 50 Hz to 4 kHz, and used external filtering to limit the bandwidth. That way, modulation density would be controlled by the external device, and the transmitter's audio stages would overshoot less.

Hopefully by mid winter the ol' DX-100B will again electrify the ionosphere.

73.

Ted, K8VPL

[kd4mxe]

well now this #is what I call a good forum here #glad to #find #a good forum like this , some of you guys #need to post #some of the #things #about #Drake # Radios I have #about 5 or 6 #to get going and I am going to #have to get some #info #from some of you guys that know #what #you are doing with drake #Radios , so dont #Be afraid to post anything #about #Drake ,I am looking for any info on Drake I can get , 73 Bill kd4mxe

[kd4mxe]

if any of you guys know any thing about #the (tempo-one ) trainsceiver you set the Bias #at 60 ma # the only #60 on the meter is on the top scale #and that would #Be #a full scale Reading #,and I have never seen #a Radio set at #full #scale #Before , dose any one have any info on this ,73 Bill kd4mxe

[ab0wr]

Quote[/b] (w5alt @ Nov. 15 2006,10:44)]Well, seeing as I'm away from home 90% of the time, I don't have much homebrew and restoration actively going on. I have several Heathkit and Hallicrafters sets stored away for when I get time, but it's not likely to be anytime soon.

In the meantime I've been playing with some DSP and various and sundry stations accessories, as well as assorted software ranging from SDR to DSP to logging. Who know what will strike my fancy next.

My last real projects were a 30m RX/TX that I want to convert to use a DDS VFO and abe able to do SWBC as well. I also have a 40m SDR to put together, which I may try to modify to cover the adjacent SWBC bands.

I've got #a couple of DDS VFOs reay to build, but I've already ruined one trying to solder the SMT DDS chip. Once I get the courage to try that again, I want to build my own all mode SDR primarily for receive, but with a QRP TX added. I'm sure I'll learn a lot along the way.

Other than that, I've been writing some DSP code for the soundcard and playing with some digital protocols. So far mainly the software is homebrew here, though.

73,
Walt, W5ALT
Walt,

The *ONLY* way to solder those DDS chips on the vfo board is to:

1. google the internet and find someone selling solder paste. I've got two syringes in the refrigerator.

2. Go to hobby lobby and get their "embossing" heat gun.

3. Go somewhere and get a cup warmer (like a little hot plate).

4. Put solder paste on the circuit board lands where the DDS chip pins go, stick the chip in the paste, put it on the cup warmer for about 5 minutes, and finally hit it with the embossing gun till the solder melts.

Man, it works great!! The embossing gun doesn't overheat the components and the cup warmer preloads everything so the chip leads just suck right down into place.

tim ab0wr

[ky5u]

Another mini project I was working on was with the testing on 600m (505kc), I wanted to find a decent transmitter (decent=cheap) that would work. I have a 475kHz crystal, so I popped it in my little Knight T-60 to test a theory.

1. Crystal current was not excessive because I did not attempt to tune the final grid ckt. I checked the output with a scope and no big spurs running out of resonance and drive was ok. Since the bandwidth of the possible Amateur allocation is about 8kHz, I would imagine I could arrive at a fixed value just out of resonance and based on minimum spurs which would limit crystal current.

2. I didn't bother to tune the output, I just bypassed the tank ckt and ran the output into a 15k ohm dummy load (something around the tube output impedence shooting from the hip). I saw 50W CW output with no unusual component heat.

3. Next step would be an experimental tuner that uses a bo-hunker toroid on the input from the transmitter, then to a "T" tuning circuit. The toroid should handle most of the impedence matching from 15-20k ohms to the typical low resistance 600m antenna and the tank circuit is more a "fine tune". Keeps the big current off of the tuning caps/coils.

Bet I could tune a ground rod, LOL!! I also bet alot of you guys are ALOT smarter than I am about Amateur design. But it was fun waking up brain cells that I have not used in a couple three decades.

http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[wa9cwx]

Great thread.

My last project (real low tech here...) was to clean up and get my 'boat anchor' desk orginized.

I realigned a B line, and now have the C and B lines on the desk.
I previously re-aligned my old-old HB-9 RX built by a friend over 40 years ago ( now a SK).
I use that RX, and a 6AG7 / 807 HB transmitter on 40. I want to find a nice Heath or Eico VFO. My original Eico STILL works perfect, since 1965, and it was USED at that time! However, it does not have a case, and is really just the chassis and front panel. Which makes it a pain to cram on the desk. I have been using the one xtal that still works, 7023, and my just aquired J38 I got on eBay.

Only actual work project is my second Elecraft K1, have the osc board built, 3 years ago now I think....I am taking my time, can't rush into these things. # # #

And #just did my semi-annual (or so) antenna walk around, no problems expected, none found......Actually, I have ONE radial that disconected from one of the verticals....I need to get a 150' foot extension cord out there....Maybe this weekend..... http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

MXE,
For actual RESTORATION on Drakes...I have been very happy with K4ICL, if he still does that, it has been two years since I talked with him. He did one of my T4XCs and two R4Cs, excellent alignment and repaint work. #He is in S.C. name is Al Link.

Frank

[wa9cwx]

Oh yea, just remembered, I am actually interested in adding a Heath Q- multiplier to the HB 9 RX. I am getting a little tired of hearing beat notes 5 Khz away! http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif

[kd4mxe]

Quote[/b] (wa9cwx @ Nov. 16 2006,16:23)]Great thread.

My last project (real low tech here...) was to clean up and get my 'boat anchor' desk orginized.

I realigned a B line, and now have the C and B lines on the desk.
I previously re-aligned my old-old HB-9 RX built by a friend over 40 years ago ( now a SK).
I use that RX, and a 6AG7 / 807 HB transmitter on 40. I want to find a nice Heath or Eico VFO. My original Eico STILL works perfect, since 1965, and it was USED at that time! However, it does not have a case, and is really just the chassis and front panel. Which makes it a pain to cram on the desk. I have been using the one xtal that still works, 7023, and my just aquired J38 I got on eBay.

Only actual work project is my second Elecraft K1, have the osc board built, 3 years ago now I think....I am taking my time, can't rush into these things. # # #

And #just did my semi-annual (or so) antenna walk around, no problems expected, none found......Actually, I have ONE radial that disconected from one of the verticals....I need to get a 150' foot extension cord out there....Maybe this weekend..... http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif
wa9cwx-MXE,
For actual RESTORATION on Drakes...I have been very happy with K4ICL, if he still does that, it has been two years since I talked with him. He did one of my T4XCs and two R4Cs, excellent alignment and repaint work. He is in S.C. name is Al Link.

Frank-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------( ok thank you I will check this out and see if he is still working on drakes, 73 Bill kd4mxe

[W5HTW]

Thanks for the tip on the VCR drive belts. It is a Go-Video dual deck. Hate to junk it, as it cost a bunch when new. And I still like it.

Have just finished converting numerous old 45s and 33-1/3s to CD, and I converted about 30 old reel tapes to CD as well. AFter doing that, I sold the Pioneer RT1020L and the tapes to a friend. Don't need 'em anymore.

Runing the old Drakes is a blast, and it remains my primary rig, despite having just acquired an FT897D. Have done quite a bit of work on the Drakes but would not consider myself an expert . Had new Drakes, both the B-line and a TR4C back in 1971, so it was a pleasaure to latch onto a nice set just four years ago. Been using 'em ever since.

As to washing rigs, I have heard of people putting S-lines in the dishwasher! Not sure I'd want to do that. I had a 32S1 that needed a good chassis cleaning and I did that tenderly with rags and soap and water.

But my Hunter Bandit, too heavy for the dishwasher, got a different treatment that worked great. It was dusty from years of sitting. Pulled the tubes, that's all. Then I set it in the kitchen sink and used the sprayer with dishwasher detergent all over it. Everywhere except around the holes where the wires come out of the transformer. Rinsed it pretty good. Then took it outside and rinsed it with the garden hose. I let it sit in the sunlight for three days.

Brought it back in, installed the tubes and fired it up. Delighted to find it worked marvelously. Still on the air four years later, with 1200 watts output.

I still don't think I'd wash my S-line, though.

Still working on the 706. Darn that thing is bugging me.

Good thread! Thanks for starting it!

Ed

[kd4mxe]

Quote[/b] (W5HTW @ Nov. 16 2006,20:20)]Thanks for the tip on the VCR drive belts. #It is a Go-Video dual deck. #Hate to junk it, as it cost a bunch when new. #And I still like it.

Have just finished converting numerous old 45s and 33-1/3s to CD, and I converted about 30 old reel tapes to CD as well. #AFter doing that, I sold the Pioneer RT1020L and the tapes to a friend. #Don't need 'em anymore.

As to washing rigs, I have heard of people putting S-lines in the dishwasher! #Not sure I'd want to do that. #I had a 32S1 that needed a good chassis cleaning and I did that tenderly with rags and soap and water. #

But my Hunter Bandit, too heavy for the dishwasher, got a different treatment that worked great. #It was dusty from years of sitting. #Pulled the tubes, that's all. Then I set it in the kitchen sink and used the sprayer with dishwasher detergent all over it. #Everywhere except around the holes where the wires come out of the transformer. #Rinsed it pretty good. Then took it outside and rinsed it with the garden hose. # I let it sit in the sunlight for three days. #

Brought it back in, installed the tubes and fired it up. #Delighted to find it worked marvelously. #Still on the air four years later, with 1200 watts output. #

I still don't think I'd wash my S-line, though. #

Still working on the 706. #Darn that thing is bugging me.

Good thread! #Thanks for starting it!

Ed
w5htw-Runing the old Drakes is a blast, and it remains my primary rig, despite having just acquired an FT897D. Have done quite a bit of work on the Drakes but would not consider myself an expert . Had new Drakes, both the B-line and a TR4C back in 1971, so it was a pleasaure to latch onto a nice set just four years ago. Been using 'em ever since.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------(yes I like them to have not got that super one yet But working on it ,I have one sent off to get it lined up good and I have 8 more I am working on I want 2 good drake stations and 1 spair and then I am done ,73 Bill kd4mxe

[VE1IDX]

Well I am trying to breath new life back into a Heath HR-10 receiver which right now I refer to it as the POS-10 http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif because it really is a piece of crap. At least it matches my DX-60 and HG-10 setup I have for 80m AM. I am also starting to work on my little winter project,converting an RCA BTA-1S 1000 watt AM broadcast transmitter to 80m where it will be driven by my TS-820S as the freq source. Of course that means a T/R sequencer and change over relays as well as control lines run from the shack in the den to the basement where the TX is located.I put my 160-10m amp on hold because of the RCA project.

[K9STH]

MXE:

The 60 mA reading is read on the "plate current" (actually cathode current) scale on the meter. I don't remember exactly the maximum indication on the meter scale but it should be something like 250 mA to 500 mA. The bias should be set so that the reading is 60 percent of the way to the 100 mA mark.


YO:

The modulator tubes in the Heath DX-100 / DX-100B are 1625 (12 volt heater versions of the 807) and not 1225. Probably just a typo!


CWX:

There is a modification for the Heath QF-1 that changes the "broad" position on the Q-Multiplier to a variable bandpass (goes from about 8 KHz down to about 100 Hz) that is definitely worthwhile in making. The modification takes about 10 minutes to make. Basically it combines the regeneration controls (originally they are separate for peak and null) and then uses the other one to control the bandpass. The modification was in the ARRL Hints & Kinks book in the late 1950s. I have the book around somewhere and have the instructions somewhere on this computer (just have to remember in which "folder" I put it). I made the modification to my first QF-1 back in early 1960 and it really helped on the unit that I used with my original Hallicrafters S-85 receiver.


As for some recent restorations at K9STH: I finally got around to restoring my National NC-2-40DT receiver and rebuilding an RME HF 10-20 converter. Photos of the NC-2-40DT can be seen at http://k9sth.com/uploads/restoration.JPG and I have attached a photo of the RME HF 10-20.

Glen, K9STH

[ky5u]

Yeah a typo. I was thinking 12v filiaments and wrote 12. Have a 1625 desk do-dad here that lights up...LOL!

Any your projects don't count because you have too many REAL radios and we're jealous!!

[ky5u]

Well, I set out this weekend to mount the Class E AM module in the Hallicrafters S-106 chasis and make a transmitter that sorta matches the S-53 receiver. Like the S-53, the S-106 is a small chasis, but when I started mocking-up the layout, there was extra room. So, I mounted the RX320D Ten Tec receiver module in the chasis as well. All the jacks on the RX320 face out the back so I could still attach the computer.

After all the crosconnecting was done, mounting of power and TX lamps and a TX/RX switch, I ended up with a cool tranceiver in the S-106 form. It's all put together with one or two screws and the wiring is not laced up yet while I evaluate how I like it. Right now I have a simple center off toggle switch that TX in the "up" position, OFF in the "mid" position and RX in the "down" opsition. I put a coax "T" with a line off to the S-53 so I could run both receivers at the same time.

Later I will work to add a relay for PTT and to allow computer control of the Transmitter. As I said, the Ten Tec Receiver is already computer controlled.

I also can't decide what I want in the round window on the front of the chasis. Thinking of either a good response mini speaker, a meter, or a simple artwork disk to plug the hole. I am leaning toward the artwork. Thinking about something along the lines of the Hallicrafters emblem on the reproducer speaker with "Tribute" in the place of "reproducer". Maybe a low wattage bulb inside the glass to light up the art when the rig is on.

Anyway, I used the transceiver on the air this morning for the first time and it is cool!

[WA2ZDY]

Quote[/b] (K9STH @ Nov. 17 2006,11:39)]MXE:

The 60 mA reading is read on the "plate current" (actually cathode current) scale on the meter. #I don't remember exactly the maximum indication on the meter scale but it should be something like 250 mA to 500 mA. #The bias should be set so that the reading is 60 percent of the way to the 100 mA mark.
It's the bottom scale of the meter and that scale is marked in tenths of an amp, rather than in hundreds of mils. So .1A = 100 mA. The plate meter goes to .5A or 500 mA.

So adding to what Glen said, 60 mA - .06A.

[kd4mxe]

Quote[/b] (WA2ZDY @ Nov. 20 2006,11:36)]Quote[/b] (K9STH @ Nov. 17 2006,11:39)]MXE:

The 60 mA reading is read on the "plate current" (actually cathode current) scale on the meter. #I don't remember exactly the maximum indication on the meter scale but it should be something like 250 mA to 500 mA. #The bias should be set so that the reading is 60 percent of the way to the 100 mA mark.
It's the bottom scale of the meter and that scale is marked in tenths of an amp, rather than in hundreds of mils. #So .1A = 100 mA. # The plate meter goes to .5A or 500 mA.

So adding to what Glen said, 60 mA - .06A.
( ok I get you there and #thanks #for the info ,the trainseiver #that I have only has #2 scales on it the top scale #seems to Be( db scale) and the bottom scale Reads from (.1 to .5)and that #should Be for the bias But it dose not go to #6 #or 60 , and the # manuel #dose not #give that information so thanks again ,Bill kd4mxe

[kd4mxe]

Quote[/b] (K9STH @ Nov. 17 2006,09:39)]The modulator tubes in the Heath DX-100 / DX-100B are 1625 (12 volt heater versions of the 807) and not 1225. #Probably just a typo!


CWX:

There is a modification for the Heath QF-1 that changes the "broad" position on the Q-Multiplier to a variable bandpass (goes from about 8 KHz down to about 100 Hz) that is definitely worthwhile in making. #The modification takes about 10 minutes to make. #Basically it combines the regeneration controls (originally they are separate for peak and null) and then uses the other one to control the bandpass. #The modification was in the ARRL Hints & Kinks book in the late 1950s. #I have the book around somewhere and have the instructions somewhere on this computer (just have to remember in which "folder" I put it). #I made the modification to my first QF-1 back in early 1960 and it really helped on the unit that I used with my original Hallicrafters S-85 receiver.


As for some recent restorations at K9STH: #I finally got around to restoring my National NC-2-40DT receiver and rebuilding an RME HF 10-20 converter. #Photos of the NC-2-40DT can be seen at http://k9sth.com/uploads/restoration.JPG and I have attached a photo of the RME HF 10-20.

Glen, K9STH
k9sth-MXE:

The 60 mA reading is read on the "plate current" (actually cathode current) scale on the meter. I don't remember exactly the maximum indication on the meter scale but it should be something like 250 mA to 500 mA. The bias should be set so that the reading is 60 percent of the way to the 100 mA mark.


:------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------( ok thank you sir I see that now I should have thought of that , But I did not But thank you very much for the Information there, 73Bill kd4mxe

[ka5piu]

Hello.

My latest project is to build a totally portable APCO25 adaptor/Encryption unit for talkies.
Both the TH-F6a and the YX-6R have settings for 9600 baud that work just fine for a digital waveform.
The trouble is that no portable adaptors are out, so I intend to homebrew something.
Everything has come together but some sort of connector for the speaker-mic, the talkies mic and speaker clearly can not be used.
Right now it is just a soldered connection and it does work but it is not removable.
This is also in line with a video interface for FSTV.

[wa9cwx]

Glen,

Thanks.

Yep, I used that Q multiplier for a few years in the 60s, never heard of that mod, but I am very interested in seeing it. I will look for it when I get a chance, and if I don't find it, I will see if you have it by then. I have my old manual for the unit, so am just kind of browsing eBay and the fests looking for a nice one, at a decent price.

I had the RME converter MANY a moon ago for 6 and 2 meters, I think it even had 220 on it as I recall. Looked identical to your pic! http://www.qrz.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[K9STH]

The most common of the RME converters is the RME-152A which converts 10, 6, and 2 meters down to 7000 KHz. The HF-10-20 converts 20, 15, and 10 meters down to 7000 KHz. Most of the VHF-152 and VHF-152A are actually in a smaller cabinet. They look pretty much the same but the HF-10-20 cabinet is about 2 inches wider than the others.

There also was the converter that covered 50 MHz, 144 MHz, and 220 MHz. However, they are no where near as common as the VHF-152 / VHF-152A models.

Glen, K9STH

[KF0RT]

Latest project here:

http://tatanka03.home.comcast.net/4line.jpg

Hope to have the T-4XC / R-4C up in time for for SKN. It's close now.

73, Rob